How To Repair Makita Batteries

Earlier we start with the dismantling, retrieve that even if your batteries exercise not piece of work anymore they most likely still incorporate a pregnant amount of free energy. Exist careful in how yous handle them and above all make sure you do non short them out.
So the showtime step is to become the comprehend off. This is held on by 4 T10 Anti Tamper screws, on newer models at that place may be a white Anti Tamper plug covering 1 of the screws. I have establish that the easiest manner to remove it is to drive in a modest wood screw and pull it out with a pair of pliers.
So the first pace is to get the cover off. This is held on by 4 T10 Anti Tamper screws, on newer models at that place may exist a white Anti Tamper plug covering one of the screws. I accept found that the easiest way to remove it is to drive in a pocket-sized wood screw and pull it out with a pair of pliers.
If on opening you lot seen whatsoever visibly damaged cells you lot are going to have to replace them which is outside of the telescopic of this write upward.

I had four failed batteries, and checked the voltages of the batteries and cell pairs individually. I found the post-obit:
attery 1: Fails to charge with a over temperature alarm. Also the plastic at the side of the release button has bubbled. It is showing 7.99v beyond the whole battery which is way to low and 0.04v, 0v, iii.96v, 0.04v and iii.97v beyond each of the cell pairs respectively. Upon opening upward the battery at that place is obvious damage to the 2nd pair of cells.
Battery Two: Fails to charge with classic red / green flashing lights. It is 12.84v across the bombardment and 3.2v, 0v, iii.22v, 3.22v & iii.21v beyond each of the cell pairs respectively.
Battery Three: Fails to charge with archetype red / green flashing lights. It is 15.54v across the battery and 0v, iii.89v, 3.89v, iii.89v & 3.89v across each of the cell pairs respectively.
Battery Iv: Fails to accuse with classic red / green flashing lights. It is 18.15v across the battery and 3.62v, three.63v,3.half dozen, 3.63 &3.62v across each of the cell pairs respectively.
Past way of comparing a known practiced battery seems to measure out around 20v when freshly charged.

The control board came with ok instructions on how to fit but they don't explain everything, this may be because it can be used with all of the models of 18v LXT battery Makita have made. Providing you take a bit of common sense you should be ok.
So autonomously from the soldering you might expect you besides accept to cutting away a lot plastic and that's bold you are lucky like me and don't need to supercede whatsoever cells. If you do spot welding to the cells is the best manner to go, as if you solder you take chances overheating.
Every bit I had previously got the battery pack out of the instance the get-go thing to do was remove the existing pcb and cut away the plastic pcb support etc every bit per the didactics. I opted to cutting the nickel contacts instead of desoldering. Fitting the pcb and soldering the wires to the contacts was simple although I had to break out my larger soldering.

Next came the moment of truth, I put the battery on a charger and it charged. I then fully discharged the battery and in one case again recharged the battery and that as well worked. Eight month on the bombardment is withal preforming perfectly.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in opposite order.

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How To Repair Makita Batteries,

Source: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Makita+18v+LXT+Lithium-ion+Battery+Charger+Repair/112373